HOLY APTASIA BATMAN!

We found that this Terra bat fish loves aptasia, too bad they get so big. The best way to get rid of aptasia is to not put it in to begin with. You can trick it off by putting the rock with aptasia in a long tote in a dark closet with a light at one end, within a day or two the aptasia will leave the rock and move towards the light.

When the power goes out DO NOT FEED YOUR FISH until the power comes back on.

Add an air stone for oxygen.

Keeping your tank warm - Place hot water in sealable bags and float in the tank.

Think about getting a back up generator! Big enough to power your pump, heater and freezer.

Note: If your fish food thaws - DO NOT REFREEZE IT AND FEED IT TO YOUR FISH! For those who use refrigerated food. Your could put on Ice on in a cooler.

WATER CHANGES

After buying our water containers; to save lifting the containers to change the water, you may set the container on a 5 gallon bucket upside down to raise the container. Open the valve to empty into another 5 gallon bucket. With a maxi-jet, attach a 1/2" hose to the out on the pump, and pump the water into the sump (or tank) , after removing 1/3 of water VOLUME. When doing your water changes we recommend to change the water from the sump not the top. Siphon water out of the sump to remove any organics that may have settled in the bottom. When a gravel suck is needed; focus on the "dead spots" and continue to remove the rest of the water out from the sump. We will recommend (at first) once a month. Changing water any soon than that will be a waste of money. Removing 1/3 water volume will replace the good nutrients. Nothing in your tank will absorb  all those nutrients in a 7 day period of time. (Depending on your animal load).

Note: Don't forget to add your B-Ionic the morning after.

Make SURE you are checking your water with a REFRACTOMETER not a HYDROMETER. They can be 2 - 8 points off brand new out of the package. Most suppliers keep their fish at a specific gravity of 1.014 - 1.018. We keep our quarantine tanks at 1.018. (Most main tanks are at 1.021) We do top off with saltwater over days to bring this up to 1.021. Your salinity could be too high. Check your tank and check the bag to determine the difference. We don't recommend changing more than 2 degrees within a 24 hour period of time, however by taking a little more time to acclimate most creatures will adapt. SEE: Acclimation

Iodide Levels: When they molt, their antanas will break off if there is not enough Iodide in your systems. WATCH YOUR SHRIMP!

BEWARE:

OF SOME PRODUCTS THAT CLAIM TO WORK IN BOTH FRESHWATER AND SALTWATER AQUARIUMS. Unfortunately there is no regulations (at this time) in this industry for chemicals on the market. They can say what ever they want to say and it does not have to do what ever it says it can do, nor is it "reef safe". Do not believe everything you read on the bottles. Their idea of "REEF SAFE" and yours could be two very different things!

DECHLORINATER:

DECHLORINATER TAP WATER is NOT good enough for saltwater creatures. Eventually those levels (phosphates, silicates, heavy metals) will build up and start killing them. Not all at once of course, but you will start losing inverts first. This chemical can only help break down the chlorine and that's it!